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The double-sized Erdenheim space accepts credit cards but also benefits from a partnership with Cardinal Hollow winery, whose license allows them to also pour local beer and spirits. You’ll need a cold glass of brew to tame Thomas’ version of Nashville hot chicken that’s exclusive to this location.This buttermilk-fried bird is set over a thick slice of bread smeared with smoked paprika rémoulade and then glazed in the red shine of a chile-Sriracha oil so spicy that one customer needed to take his shirt off.And yes, Cantina also makes my favorite nachos, an imposing but irresistible tortilla montaña that’s intricately built, where every chip has a tasty salsa, pickled chile, soft frijole, trickling river of molten cheese or tender morsel of smoky brisket that seems to be calling my name.
The mille-feuille, for example, layers seasonal fruit with rich crème chibouste into flaky layers of house made puff pastry.But most importantly, this veteran of the Vargas restaurant group knows how to give his food a generosity of Creole flavors with subtle hints of seasonal creativity, from the spice-dusted shrimp over cheesy grits, to zesty okra stew, crispy vegan fritters of black-eyed peas over sautéed eggplant, tender ribs and a meaty crab cake with corn maque choux.The cash-only Jenkintown original is an intimate 26-seat BYOB addition to the neighborhood, with a decadent mac and cheese not to be missed.If that isn’t a vote of approval, I don’t know what is.This swank bi-level restaurant outfitted with mahogany, a long curving bar, multiple fireplaces, an outdoor patio, and more than 40 wines by the glass (plus 200 bottles) is Ambler’s most sophisticated dining destination.
The cocktails also are impressive (try the brandied riff on an Old Fashioned).